"foligno, perugia"

The streets of Foligno, unlike its medieval neighbor, Perugia, suit the use of bicycles for transportation. With the exception of the winter season, the citizens of Foligno—both young and old—ride their old-fashioned bicycles, the tires thin but possessing a wide diameter. Children race through the streets until La Madre, a name created by the old shopkeepers, runs out with her apron still covered with baking flour, and scolds the children. Throughout the day, she can be heard, her rasp of a voice ringing out against the cobblestone on which horses had once tread: Fermavi! Siete bambini stupidi! During siesta the bicycles disappear and all is silent save for the occasional sound of a sweeping broom.

Ten miles south, the city of Perugia perches on top of the largest hill of Umbria. The Etruscans had settled here first and founded the beginnings of what is now Italian culture. Much later in Italy’s history, the Perugian citizens fought the rival town of Assisi and hung decapitated heads along Via Ritorta, where they had built the military barracks, until the Pope sent his army up the steep streets and sacked this city on the hill because its fiery citizens had refused to pay the tax on salt. To this day, Perugia’s bread is saltless, so stubborn are the hearts of Italians. The Pope, who did not fancy walking up hills, dug into the earth and built city underground. The Americans who study at the international language school huff and puff after the ten minute walk to the historic center, located at the very peak of the hill. At the outdoor bar, Punto Vista, the students drink wine and look down at Foligno, perhaps feeling superior. At all moments of the day Italians stroll up and down Corso Vannucci, and one can sit on the steps of the massive Duomo and people watch before making his way back down the slope. For obvious reasons, women learn quickly not to wear heels that rise too high above the ground; for not so obvious reasons, they learn that the heels prevent them from running through the gauntlet of Italian men who shout, Bella bella, bella.